Pitiusas

From the northern edges of the swampy salt fields, we can reach the Es Cubells hermitage next to Cap Llentrisca cape in just a short time.

To the right, not far from a farmhouse, we find Torre d’en Joan Joanet tower and,a bit further away, Pere Ric tower, the latter crowning a small hill populated by olive trees in the middle of which the luminous presence of a white farmhouse stands out. In the background are more blunt hills forming a dome.

After a brief stretch amongst various hills and over rough yellowish terrain populated mostly by junipers, mastics and some carob trees, we have to abandon the road to Sant Josep again to get to Es Cubells and turn southwest through a very abrupt valley with abundant vegetation consisting of carob, olive and very lush fig trees.

In the external part of the streambed, we find the Es Cubells Church dedicated to the Holy Virgin. It is a sober building, very similar to those of its kind, with three chapels and a half-point arch on either side inside the main nave which is yet to be covered. The chapel for the main altar, already in use, is closed by a wooden gate.

The Es Cubells Church seems quite alone and isolated to us, accompanied only further up by a miserable grey-coloured little house. However, the setting is truly marvellous and offers an enchanting panoramic view of the vast, luminous sea challenged only by an abrupt rocky slope whose base wages an eternal battle with the waves. In the distance we see Formentera Island. A sharp eye will also be able to make out the profiles of the reefs and shoals which precede it.

From the church, a winding path leads down amongst white rocks to the hermitage proper. Abundant vegetation forewarns us of the proximity of a habitat full of peace and a select location. Arranged in terraces on the slope we find beautiful orange, pomegranate, fig and other fruit trees amongst which pumpkins, cabbages and other vegetables grow, in addition to flowers which scent the sea breeze filtering through the reeds. The hermit’s house is practically hidden by orange trees and the numerous grape vines which climb the small veranda. From here, the dark green of the profusely fruit-laden tree branches contrasts with the blue of the wide sea and the rigid, dark form of Puig d’en Serra along with the nearby Cap Llentrisca cape.

Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Las Baleares por la palabra y el grabado. Primera parte: Las Antiguas Pitiusas. Ed. Sa Nostra, Caja de Baleares. Palma de Mallorca. 1982