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“At dusk we enter the Jewish Quarter. We see no Arabs, no white djellabas, no girls wrapped in clothing; we only see thin and black figures wearing a dark overcoat with red front, brown stockings, closed shoes, a black rag serving as a turban on a shaved head. We see feminine figures in the already-described heavy way of dressing though they sometimes have very thin faces. At times they show themselves through half-broken windows behind iron bars. The little streets are narrow and dirty; at times they are open and, at others, they have a bridge above with arches and pillars decorated in the Moorish fashion. Here we also hear nasal prayers in the afternoons issuing forth from the synagogue; there are numerous synagogues in this neighbourhood. A taste for Moorish decor predominates in them; for this reason you might think you were in a mosque were it not for the benches and the cabinets holding the valuable Torah rolls.”
(Ph. 6 in the Jewish Quarter)
Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria, Tunis. Ein bild aus dem nordafrikanischen leben, Heinrich Mercy, Prague, 1870
We weren’t able to visit what was once the city’s old Jewish quarter.
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