Paxos y Antipaxos

“We leave Porto Spuzzo to travel along the outer coast of Mongonisi. The first point we come to is Kavos Tu Moskofilit. It’s followed later by Grava Sto Anguraki Point and then by a basin topped above by olive trees. Then comes the elongated Kavu Tu Anguraki Point between the islands of Mongonisi and Kalkionisi where only smaller boats can pass by and limited to the right by the slopes of Mongonisi with rocks sticking out amongst gray shrubs. On both sides of Kalkonisi channel, under and in front of Agios Spiridion, we can see sulphur vapours.

The end of this wild coastline consists of a natural arch, To Generalatu, thus called because a general once ate there. It is like a giant table sticking out of the rock, with the horizontal Xera Tu Generalatu reef in front. Water drips down from the top of this arch, and the view through the arch to Antipaxos and the faraway coast of the peninsula is precious, seemingly blown by soft, bluish tints.

We now come to the marvellous and impressive Trepitos, one of Paxos’ primary attractions. It has a table-shaped base, like a giant pedestal in the sea. You can go underneath but not from this side because a large reef closes off the entrance in the middle and the table-shaped base makes for not very deep water. You can anchor near the rocky beach we have baptised ‘Neptune’s table.’ The impact produced is surprising; you could say like in a fairytale. One feels miniscule in front of this marvel. One cannot imagine anything prettier than this table exuding the smell of sea, under this giant arch built in the blue sky, a place truly designed for sea gods and sea nymphs, involuntarily painting our fantasy with mythological visions. Sitting there, listening to the sea, is almost intoxicating, like breathing amidst the algae, while the caves drink in the waves, the latter seemingly caressing the bitten rocks.”